去角质
Mandelic Acid
INCI: DL-Mandelic Acid · alpha-Hydroxybenzeneacetic Acid · 2-Hydroxy-2-phenylacetic Acid
The Chinese name for Mandelic Acid is 杏仁酸 (pinyin: xìng rén suān). Also known as 苦杏仁酸.
Quick Facts
- Chinese
- 杏仁酸 (xìng rén suān)
- English
- Mandelic Acid
- Also known as
- 苦杏仁酸
- INCI
- Mandelic Acid
- Category
- 去角质
- Effective %
- 5% – 15%
- Pregnancy
- Consult doctor
Mandelic acid is a naturally derived AHA with the largest molecule of the group, which makes it the gentlest to absorb — a good fit for sensitive skin and first-time acid users. It dissolves the bonds holding dead surface cells to smooth skin and clear pores, penetrating more slowly than glycolic or salicylic acid so skin gets time to adapt.
Key benefits
- Gentle exfoliation: its large molecule penetrates slowly, far less irritating than glycolic acid — strong evidence
- Improves texture and enlarged pores: clears pores and reduces blackheads and comedones — moderate clinical evidence
- Speeds cell turnover and brightens: consistent use improves dullness — limited evidence, but user reports are consistent
- Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory: inhibits some C. acnes activity, a useful assist for acne-prone skin — limited evidence
- Fades dark marks: sustained use helps lighten post-inflammatory pigmentation and, in theory, prevents new melanin buildup
Good for
- Sensitive, easily irritated skin
- First-time acid users
- Enlarged pores and comedone-prone skin
- Dull or uneven skin tone
- Acne-prone skin and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Use with caution
- Pregnant or breastfeeding — topical risk is low, but caution says skip it
- Open wounds or severe inflammation — will make irritation and discomfort worse
- Currently on retinol or tretinoin — combining them risks over-exfoliation and barrier damage
- Severely compromised barrier — pause if skin is already peeling, red, or burning
Pairing notes
✓ Pairs well with
✕ Avoid mixing with
Frequently asked
What is Mandelic Acid in Chinese?
Mandelic acid is 杏仁酸 (xìng rén suān) in Chinese — the same name is used in Taiwan — and it's sometimes called 苦杏仁酸. It's the gentlest of the common AHAs: a large, slow-penetrating molecule that exfoliates dead cells and clears pores with minimal irritation.
How is mandelic acid different from glycolic acid?
Mandelic acid's molecule is bigger (152 Da vs 106 Da), so it penetrates slowly and gently — better for sensitive skin. Glycolic absorbs fast and hits harder, suiting thicker, resilient skin. Sensitive-skin beginners should start with mandelic, then try glycolic once tolerance builds.
How long until mandelic acid shows results?
Most people notice smoother, brighter texture within 2–4 weeks. Pore improvement usually takes 6–8 weeks, and fading dark marks takes 3+ months. Frequency, concentration, and your skin's condition all affect the timeline.
Will mandelic acid thin my skin over time?
No. It only removes dead surface cells and doesn't harm living ones; consistent use actually speeds renewal and leaves the stratum corneum healthier and more even. The key is a reasonable dose and gradual ramp-up — don't jump straight to high concentrations.
How should sensitive skin use mandelic acid?
Start at 5–8%, once or twice a week, and increase frequency only as skin adapts. Very sensitive skin should test first on tolerant spots like the cheekbones or chin. Persistent stinging or redness means stop immediately.
Can I use mandelic acid during the day?
You can, but it's not recommended. It raises skin sensitivity and sun-reaction risk, so daytime use demands SPF 30+. Nighttime use is safer and more effective, giving skin time to fully recover.
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Educational reference only — results vary by person; see a doctor for serious skin issues.